The Polar Express

Christmas came and went and we didn’t convert to Catholicism (although Phoebe remains a little up in the air on that front).

There was a huge market on the Plaza De Armas in Cusco on Christmas Eve and we exhausted ourselves buying fireworks and didn’t make it back for Christmas mass. Even so, we did have a tour of the cathedral on boxing day and it is amazing. The ability of the Catholics to adapt local religions to their own – at least until they reach a critical mass after which they simply massacre non believers – is truly astounding. The cathedral contains many wonderful artworks dating from the 16th century, but one of the most impressive is a 17th century adaptation of the Last Supper. Not only is the direct gaze of Judas truly frightening, but the disciples are hoeing into local fair, including a very distinctive guinea pig in the middle of the table. There is also an amazing 16th century choir stall, which took over a decade to carve. In addition to 40 something male and 30 something female saints it also contains quite unCatholic miniature images of a topless female at each choir stall. It is none other than “Pachamama” the pre Inca pregnant image of mother earth that has been worshipped in the Andes for thousands of years.

Christmas day itself was fairly traditional. We were joined by everyone from Peru’s Challenge for ham, turkey, champagne and fireworks. I’d definitely like to add the latter to an Aussie Christmas. There is something very jolly about blowing things up.

We did miss everyone at home though and I hope you all had a great Christmas and New Year.

We have since been to Lake Titicaca, swam in the highest navigable freshwater lake in the world and experienced the true horror of an overnight local bus from Puno. But that will have to wait for another blog.